Drive to Cashapampa, or take local transport changing at Caraz.

Alpamayo, nestled in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes, stands as a testament to the allure of high-altitude climbing. At an elevation of 5,947 meters (19,511 feet), this striking peak is renowned for its near-perfect pyramid shape, often described as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The south-west face, in particular, offers a classic climbing route with its steep ice flutes that test even seasoned climbers. This is a mountain where technical skill is paramount, and every stride demands respect for both the terrain and the rapidly changing weather conditions.

The climb itself is no walk in the park. Expect a mix of snow, ice, and rock, with the most popular route being the Ferrari Route on the southwest face. This ascent requires proficiency in ice climbing, as you'll be navigating pitches of 50-60 degrees with some sections approaching 70 degrees. The conditions can vary, but generally, the mountain is most accessible between June and August when the weather is relatively stable. Crevasse navigation is crucial, and the potential for avalanches adds another layer of complexity, making Alpamayo a serious undertaking for those looking to push their limits.

Alpamayo is not just about the climb; it’s about the experience of being amidst the stunning vistas of the Andes, surrounded by the raw beauty of untouched nature. The logistical aspect is straightforward, with twelve guides offering expeditions, ensuring that climbers can focus on the challenge ahead. This mountain demands not only technical expertise but also a deep respect for its unpredictable nature—traits any competent mountaineer will appreciate and embrace.

Located in the Arhuaycocha Valley, Base Camp serves as the main staging area for the ascent. It is the starting point for acclimatization and preparation.

Base Camp

High Camp is situated on the glacier and serves as the final staging area before the summit push. Climbers navigate through snow and ice to reach this camp.

High Camp

The summit of Alpamayo, reached by climbing the steep and technical southwest face. This section involves advanced ice climbing techniques.

Summit

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp, camping along the way (two days up, one down). It's a big walk up to high camp, which is shared with Quitaraju.

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp (camping along the way). From base camp you climb up to high camp (same as for Quitaraju).

The weather in the Cordillera Blanca, where Alpamayo is located, varies significantly throughout the year. The best months for climbing are typically May through August, which are the dry season months with the most stable weather conditions.

Alpamayo

Excellent experience in Mt Aspiring National Park with Gavin

My adventure and self mastery time with First Light Guiding was a great way to 'stop' check in on things.. By being at the Plateau hut on Mt Cook where most climbers prepare and make there final ascent to submit Mt Cook was awe inspiring and quite humbling experience when you consider what nature as to offer and its immense forces that can change so quickly. The  alpine guiding was undertaken very professionally and you can rest assured in the company of Gavin Lang that you are in very good and very experienced hands. Add in time to 'stop' with guided inner reflection and some profound realisations will come forth. Put these two aspects together and you have a fantastic course to grow and develop.

Wanted to go for a good experience in the Southern Alps and Gavin/First Light Guiding provided exactly this. Learnt a lot during this one week with Gavin around Colin Todd Hut about the conditions down there. Gavin is a very knowledgeable/safe guide, who share lots of his experience. I was impressed by the cooking. We ended up going for Aspiring as some snow the week before prevented us from going on proper rock. Playing with the conditions is a key in NZ! Thanks again for taking me with you Gavin, looking forward to meeting you again in the hills or in the valley :) !

Matthieu V

My adventure and self mastery time with First Light Guiding was a greatBy being at the Plateau hut on Mt Cook where most climbers prepare and make there final ascent to submit Mt Cook was awe inspiring and quite humbling experience when you consider what nature as to offer and its immense forces that can change so quickly. The  alpine guiding was undertaken very professionally and you can rest assured in the company of Gavin Lang that you are in very good experienced hands. Add in time to 'stop' with guided inner reflection and some profound realisations will come forth. Put these two aspects together and you have a fantastic course .

Guided Alpine training with Guided self mastery

Matthew K

My primary goal was to summit Mt Aspiring but I came away with so much more. Not only is Gavin Lang an exceptional mountain guide but he's a skilled life coach. I'm now on a new pathway and its feels great. Gavin is great company, and cooks amazing meals. The best indicator for the strength of this recommendation is that I am already booked in for my next course with Gavin.

I had the pleasure of doing a 5 day expedition with Gavin in April 2018. His communication and organisation were excellent right from the very start. During the trip, the fresh food was amazing and Gavins level of expertise in all areas was clear to see. I would have no hesitation in going on another expedition with Gavin in the future and highly recommend him to others, regardless of your level of mountaineering experience! Thanks again Gav!

As a landscape photographer based in Sydney Australia, I started to explore New Zealand's high mountains 5 years ago. Over the years, I have been to several mountain regions of the South Island, including Tasman Glacier, Fox Glacier, and Darran Mountains. In this April 2018, I had explored Mount Aspiring - one of the most elegant mountains in the Southern Alps of New Zealand, with the guide Gavin Lang from First Light Guiding.
It was a great experience with Gavin to have this mountain trip. In our 6 days expedition, Gavin made wise decisions to make me stay in safe and very enjoyable as well. During this trip, based on the weather broadcasting, we could have a window on Wed to summit My Aspiring, but due to the delay of a storm, we had to wait in Colin Todd Hut on that day. Then we got the weather update saying that Thursday morning would be clear, so we decided to climb to Sheep Owner Ridge - a 200 m vertical high above Colin Todd Hut, to take sunrise photographs.
We started our climb at 5am towards Sheep Owner Ridge. But on the half way of our climb, Gavin observed that there were some snow flakes in the dark sky. Gavin sensed that a storm was coming towards us, and made a decision to turn back to the Hut as soon as possible. So we started to go down. By the time the storm reached us, we already got into the hut safely.
I learned many concepts of techniques of mountaineering from Gavin, and look forward to have another mountain trip with him in December 2018 again.

6 Day expedition to Mt Aspiring

Highly recomend First Light Guiding to all!

Nigel R

Thanks for your kind words Yan. It was a pleasure to guide you and work to your photographic needs which is quite different to a standard ascent. It was pleasing to know that you achieved all your photographic goals, and we look forward to seeing your time lapse footage of the Milky Way. 
It will be quite something to reach the summit of Aspiring when you return again in December. See you soon.

Rostenier

As a landscape photographer based in Sydney Australia, I started to explore New Zealand's high mountains 5 years ago. In this April 2018, I had explored Mount Aspiring - one of the most elegant mountains in the Southern Alps of New Zealand, with the guide Gavin Lang from First Light Guiding. 

It was a great experience with Gavin to have this mountain trip.  During our 6 days expedition, Gavin made wise decisions to make me stay in safe and very enjoyable as well. During this trip, based on the weather broadcasting, we could have a window on Wed to summit My Aspiring, but due to the delay of a storm, we had to wait in Colin Todd Hut on that day. Then we got the weather update saying that Thursday morning would be clear, so we decided to climb to Sheep Owner Ridge - a 200 m vertical high above Colin Todd Hut, to take sunrise photographs. 

We started our climb at 5am towards Sheep Owner Ridge. But on the half way of our climb, Gavin observed that there were some snow flakes in the dark sky. Gavin sensed that a storm was coming towards us, and made a decision to turn back to the Hut as soon as possible. So we started to go down. By the time the storm reached us, we already got into the hut safely.

I learned many concepts of techniques of mountaineering from Gavin, and look forward to have another mountain trip with him in December 2018 again.

	Score	Reviews
Guided Peaks	5 / 5	17
TripAdvisor	4.8 / 5	7
Google	5 / 5	10

First Light Guiding

Reviews, Ratings, & Trips

Trips offered by First Light Guiding

Alpamayo
$6,790